Ryan's Journal

I think the general impression of surfers given to Midwesterners is that of non-existent mental capacity combined with foolish athleticism. Somebody out there in the media world doesn't like surfers. I'm sure the surfing community is as diverse as any other, but the Waikiki locals I watched the waves with seemed to be a base meritocracy: the world is made of those who can surf and those who get in the way. I can see an egotistical media maven getting offended at that.

I made my share of newbie mistakes; one adolescent suggested I should go try canoeing because it was easier. If I hadn't been out of breath from paddling and trying to learn how to control the board underneath me, I would have told her that only doing what's easy makes for a boring life.

Surly teens and crowded space aside, Waikiki ended up being a good place to learn, with relatively smaller waves coming infrequently enough for me to recover. Yes, I did get to my feet. Snowboarding and all those years riding the T have paid off.

I hear the waves off of Ireland are good.